Sunday, November 13, 2011

Adventures with Mama Chris Part III: Stirling when it....rains

Wednesday marked the third day of our sojourning through the land of the Scots. We set out this morning for Stirling. The journey to Stirling by train is only about an hour which was a considerable improvement after Monday's trail ride. Getting to Stirling was only half the battle we found. Like most Castles, Stirling Castle sits at the top of a hill in the middle of town. I only call this a hill because geographical jargon prohibits me from calling it a mountain. We hiked uphill from the train station to the castle entrance, quite a way to spend your morning. After purchasing our Explorer Pass (ensuring our entrance into Stirling Castle, Argyll's Lodging, Edinburgh Castle and a few other land marks) we lingered in the front of the castle for a while. The reason for this was because we were told the tour of Argyll's Lodging would start in about twenty minutes. As it turned out, the times for the tour of the Lodging had been pushed back a half an hour. After figuring this out we made our way a little further into the castle, remarking at the display of the timeline of the goings on in and around Stirling Castle as well as the view thereof.

We joined the tour that led us out of the castle and down the hill to Argyll's Lodging. The castle was an example of how royalty lived and the Lodging was an example of how a nobleman lived. Argyll's Lodging was first the home of John Traill, a successful business man. Construction on this house began in the late 1590's and originally It began as a two story house. In 1629 it passed into the hands of Sir William Alexander, Lord of Stirling. Sir William was the tutor to the Earl of Argyll as well as Prince Charles (later King Charles I). Being so well connected proved a gift and a curse to the first Lord Stirling. He was granted tracts of land in what is now Nova Scotia and northern parts of the fledgling American Colonies. the entirety of Long Island was once in his possession as well. As intelligent as this man was, his business sense was rudimentary. Unable to keep up with his debtors, the Earl was forced to sell off many of his claims to land in the new world. In 1640 he died and his home stood vacant for twenty years. Though Sir William Alexander was able to extend upon the building that he lived in in Stirling, it did not achieve it's current glory until it was bought by the man who it now owes its namesake to. It was in 1660 that the 9th Earl of Argyll, Archibald Campbell, was looking for a new residency that would put him squarely between his properties in the north and the south. He came to Stirling and saw the potential in this vacant house. It was much too plain for a great man to live in; and the Earl of Argyll fancied himself a very great man. He added on to the house the enclosed the courtyard behind a screen wall with an elaborate entrance gate. Greater kitchen areas and halls were added to accommodate the residence and guests of the house as well. In 1680, there was much civil unrest in England and Scotland. Noting his precarious position, the Earl had a full inventory of his house drawn up and turned over to his wife. The Lady of the house kept excellent records of the house and its contents which have made for an easier time for those seeking to restore the house. Once again the house stood empty, forsaken by its former master until it was needed. Much of the interior of the house was painted over or discarded in the 1880's when the house was converted into a military hospital. Later, it was utilized by the town as a youth hostile. Seeing the building's historical significance, Scotland's Historical Society has sought to restore the lodging's former glory. Argyll's records and the fact that most of the house was perfectly preserved has aided their efforts to recommission the lodging that sits in the shadow of the Castle.

Departing from the Lodging and going back up the hill, we properly started our tour of Stirling Castle. We weaved our way through the Great Hall, Chapel, kitchens, and living quarters of the King and Queen. Stirling Castle has several actors placed throughout who give visitors historical background to the building they are exploring in such a way that it is not easily forgotten. My mother and I came upon one such actor in the Queen's Chamber. She said she was the nurse to the infant Queen Mary of Scots. She described to us much of the goings on of the court and the everyday life of persons in that time period. For example, it was well known in that time that John Knox was not thought very highly of in the royal courts. This 'lady' described him to us as a dower faced old crow whose heretical views were sure to get him into much trouble in the not too distant future. I couldn't help but laugh when she said this.

This was the only day of our week that mom was able to experience proper Scottish weather. Indeed, near the end of our visit to Stirling Castle it began to rain. This was not like the rainstorms that we get at home but just the gentle, though cold, rain that frequents this island. Our visits to castles through the week were in an interesting order (not counting Inverness Castle). First we saw Urquhart Castle which is now a collection of ruins. Second we visited Stirling Castle which is wonderfully preserved but not used for its intended purposes. The last castle we were set to visit is still, in ever sense, in use.

https://picasaweb.google.com/108532852514122909750/StirlingII?authkey=Gv1sRgCLevps-Mr6bSbw#

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